Wide aperture lenses are prized for their ability to render backgrounds blurry and throw everything but a narrow plane of the photograph out of focus.Īutumn Leaves and Autumn Light by Archaeofrog on Flickr A 50 mm prime lens is also a great tool for macro photography: read more in Cheap and Easy Macro: comparisons and recommendations. Considering most lens run into the multiple hundreds to thousands of dollars, this is a great starter lens for moving beyond your initial kit lens or lenses. (Read more in Yes, You Need a 50mm Lens.) Both Canon and Nikon make versions for their cameras that are around $100-120 USD. If you currently have only the lens or lenses that came with your camera, and you really want to make a big difference in your photography and have a little to spend, then I highly recommend purchasing a 50 mm f/1.8 lens for your camera. While the furthest back leaves are out-of-focus in all three images, by the time you reach the right-hand image and an aperture of f/1.8, only the two front leaves are left in focus. The wider the aperture value, the less of the image is within focus, and the easier it is to achieve a blurry background and bokeh. This image offers a comparison of three aperture values on the wider-end of the spectrum. This comparison of changing aperture is from the article Remember the Background and Move Your Feet! While it is still possible to achieve some of the neat effects, blurry backgrounds, and fancy bokeh at these values with a kit lens, your ability to do so increases tremendously with an even wider aperture. The kit lens that came with my Canon T1i, a EF-S 18-55 mm f/3.5 – f/5.6, means that it has a maximum wide aperture of f/3.5 when taking a picture at 18 mm but that the maximum wide aperture at 55 mm is only f/5.6. For many zoom lenses, the widest aperture you can get varies depending on whether you are using the wider or narrower end of the zooming capabilities of the lens. If you have only a kit lens, then the widest aperture you have may be somewhere between f/3.5 and f/5.6. The widest aperture available on a given lens is often included in the name of the lens itself. Necklace Bokeh by Archaeofrog on Flickr, shot at f/1.8 F/22: A small aperture value (smaller fraction) = a narrower opening = less light coming in = a wider depth of field (much more in focus) and a slower relative shutter speed.F/1.8: A larger aperture value (larger fraction) = a wider opening = more light coming in = shallower depth of field (much less in focus) and a faster relative shutter speed.These bullet points summarize the main points about the two opposite ends of the spectrum:
APERTURE 3.5 VS 2.8 SERIES
The next two posts in this series will cover the narrow-end of the aperture spectrum, in the range of f/18 – f/22, and then the middle of the aperture spectrum, in the range of f/8 – f/11. This post will focus specifically on the wide-open end of the aperture spectrum, in the range of f/1.2 – f/5.6. So I wanted to organize this series of posts around three divisions of the aperture range and the benefits and limitations of each. When I was first starting out in photography, I found it much easier to wrap my head around aperture by thinking about what each aperture category could do for me than in trying to parse out all of the values and variables and terminology. The first article in this series on aperture is called Aperture and the F/Stop Conundrum.
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